Saturday, April 21, 2012

Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants 2012: Part 2 of 3

Adesso

4395 Piedmont Ave. (at Pleasant Valley Road)
Oakland
Tel. (510) 601-0305      
Map | www.dopoadesso.com
It seems just about every restaurant these days offers house-made salumi, but no place does it better than this compact Oakland restaurant. Owner Jon Smulewitz was inspired by the aperitivo bars in Bologna and has recreated that feel in an industrial-looking space near his other Italian gem, Dopo. Chad Arnold creates up to 40 kinds of cured meats on a menu that includes pates, antipasti, oysters, cheese, dessert and exceptional cocktails. Every meat is distinctive -- you can taste the fennel, garlic and red wine in the Abruzzo,; the vanilla and anise in the Felino. Early in the evening and late at night, look for free platters of salumi to go with cocktails and wine.

Specialties: Any of the house-made salumi; pates such as duck liver mousse in a jar; 18-month-old prosciutto; any cocktail.

Hours

Dinner 5 p.m.-midnight Monday-Wednesday, until 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday.

Cuisines

  • Italian

Features

  • Beer and wine
  • Credit Cards: Accepted
  • Open Late
  • Seating (50)
  • Bar Bites
  • Reservations: No

Chronicle Rating

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Price
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Flour + Water

2401 Harrison St. (at 20th Street)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 826-7000      
Map | www.flourandwater.com
Even after nearly three years, getting a seat at this small Italian restaurant hasn't gotten any easier. While half the restaurant is open for walk-ins, if you don't get at the door well before the 5:30 p.m. opening, you're in for a long wait. However, people don't seem to mind once they fork into Thomas McNaughton's pasta with smoked duck and fresh horseradish or his classic take on the Piedmontese agnolotti dal plin. He also offers great pizza, a couple of main courses and some of the best Italian-inspired desserts in the city. The casual interior has a soulful quality, with stained-glass accents from the still-missed Myth, rustic ceiling beams and handsome walnut tables.

Specialties: Pasta tasting menu, featuring five pastas, appetizer and dessert ($60); chocolate budino tart with espresso caramel cream.

Hours

Dinner 5:30 p.m.-midnight nightly.

Cuisines

  • Italian
  • Pizza

Features

  • Beer and wine
  • Credit Cards: Accepted
  • Open Late (until midnight Thursday-Saturday)
  • Parking: Street (Fairly easy)
  • Seating (40 (plus 19 in the lounge))
  • Reservations: Accepted

Chronicle Rating

Overall
Price
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Pesce

2227 Polk St. (near Vallejo)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 928-8025      
Map | www.pescesf.com
Venetian-inspired seafood is what sets this Polk Street restaurant apart from other Italian places. Chef-owner Ruggero Gadaldi, who also owns Beretta and Delarosa, offers a unique take on cicchetti, small plates such as grilled sardines, tuna conserva with a three-bean salad, or an Italian take on cioppino. The few larger plates include whole roast fish, and spaghetti with lobster, saffron, tomato and brandy cream sauce. You'll also find a few meat dishes, including milk-braised pork with gnocchi. The comfortable interior features a zinc bar, teak shelving, mahogany paneling and hexagonal floor tiles.

Specialties: Warm octopus salad with potatoes; crab tower; fennel and arugula salad; squid ink risotto; pappardelle with duck; sgroppino (a dessert drink).

Hours

Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Cuisines

  • Italian
  • Seafood

Features

  • Online Reservation
  • Credit Cards: Accepted
  • Full Bar
  • Parking: Difficult
  • Parking: Street
  • Private Dining Room (Semi-private room for 14)
  • Reservations: Accepted
  • Seating (38 plus 15 at the bar)

Chronicle Rating

Overall
Price
Noise
Food
Service
Ambience


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